A Camino Reflection by Rev Phyllis Jones

Before going to Spain, I did have a few questions and doubts: 'how would we know which way to go?' Could I manage the days when the walks were longer? I'd been having physio on my neck and shoulder and I worried how I'd cope carrying the backpack.' I'd also not done as much walking as I should have, partly because I was busy and partly because the weather was so wet. So, although I was mentally ready for the challenge, I knew that physically I could have been in better shape. Well, there were challenges, but each day brought us a bit nearer to reaching our goal and, in the end, it was an amazing thing to do.

Unbeknown to us, the day we arrived in Santiago was a public holiday, which presented us with a few challenges before even starting the Camino walk! We were supposed to catch a bus at the airport to Lugo, and then another to Sarria. However, because of the public holiday, the buses were working on a reduced timetable and because few people spoke English it was not easy to work out what we should do. So, to avoid arriving at our hotel around 11.00pm, we resorted to a taxi, a bus and another taxi, and managed to get there in time for dinner!

The next morning, backpacks in place, we set out following the scallop shells set in the pavement and the yellow arrows. (What would we do without the yellow arrows!) All went well until we lost sight of both in the main street of Sarria! After asking several people the way, finally the word Camino and our 'pilgrim appearance', found us pointed in the right direction – climbing very steep cobbled streets and stopping now and then to recover, under the pretence of admiring the buildings or the view!! I began to wonder if I'd make it to the top let alone to Santiago! Not only that, it was so cold, I longed for a woollen hat and gloves.

Once on the main Camino path, we could walk faster and keep a bit warmer. The terrain was varied, steep at times but also involved stepping from stone to stone over muddy tracks and excess water running off the land. However, with beautiful wild flowers and birdsong to accompany us, we soon forgot our discomforts. After stopping for a warm drink and something to eat, the rain started and out came the waterproofs! We arrived at at Morgave around 3.30pm cold and wet, and hoping for a bit of warmth from the fire in the sitting room – there was not too much warmth to be felt through someone who had placed themselves squarely in front of the log burner with no intention of moving! However, supper was a good opportunity to meet and chat to other pilgrims, including Rose, a lady from Cork.

The next day was still cold but dry and once again a joy to walk, listening to the birds and seeing the lovely wild flowers. We enjoyed stopping off at cafes along the way which were unbelievably cheap or sometimes just a bowl for a donation. After about 3 days the temperature rose to around 25C – a bit too warm for walking at times (no pleasing some!!). I struggled with back and shoulder pain from carrying the rucksack and then developed the dreaded blister, which became infected! A visit to the medical centre, antibiotics and dressings, enabled me to continue somewhat more slowly. On the Sunday morning, as we left Palas de Rei, we stopped off in a pretty church being prepared for the morning service. Lovely music was playing and it was an opportunity to pray for the days ahead and to thank God for all our experiences so far.

And there are so many experiences; and one of the best is meeting and talking to other pilgrims along the way. Another experience that took me by surprise was how much I appreciated the scent of Eucalyptus trees. Never one of my favourites through association with cold remedies, the gentle, relaxing fragrance of walking through woodland of oak and eucalyptus, filled me with sense of well-being. The rythmn my poles tapped out as I walked, sparked hymn melodies and I felt so at peace and in tune with God and nature. And this was the biggest benefit of all – I returned home totally relaxed and de-stressed. I just need to remind myself every so often that it is possible, as I step back and reflect on the Camino experience!

I must thank my friend Janis for accompanying me and supporting me during the difficult times – our friendship deepened through our shared experiences. The other huge boost when I returned, was opening a pile of letters and donations from so many lovely people, for the St. James Restoration Fund. The generosity is amazing and even though the challenge to restore our beautiful church will continue in the months and years ahead, with every donation we are a step nearer our goal and that makes the Camino so worthwhile. Thank you all so much for your love and support.

Rev. Phyllis