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The Kerry Days      

of the Knights              

Hospitaller

by Francis M O’Donnell

 

 

The Knights of the Order of Saint John the Baptist known as the Hospitallers, came to Ireland in the twelfth century with the advent of the Anglo-Normans, although it cannot be ruled out that some Irish had already joined the Order as early as 1153 in a crusade to Jerusalem.

Around 1174, Richard de Clare, Second Earl of Pembroke, known as Strongbow, granted a large estate to the Hospitallers on the north-western fringes of the medieval city of Dublin. Kilmainham became the seat of their Priory.        By 1212, the Hospitallers had twelve preceptories in Ireland, with

 at least three foundations in County Kerry: Rattoo, Ardfert, and Tralee. Ardfert and Tralee were later dependent on the Knights’ great commandery at Awney(Knockaney) in County Limerick .

 

The former site of the Tralee foundation now houses the Church of Ireland School, local housing and the Church of St John the Evangelist and Parish Centre on Ashe St.

 

A little east of Ardfert and north-east of Tralee, they may also have had a brief connection with Mount Crusline, the tallest peak in Kerry north of Tralee, and its townland of Ballintobeenig, called after St Aubin.


 

Rattoo

 

The Knights Hospitaller reached County Kerry and established themselves in Rattoo (Ballyduff) near Listowel around 1200. In that year Meiler, son of Meiler FitzHenry, a grandson of King Henry I of England who served as Justiciar of Ireland under John, Lord of Ireland and King of England, established a preceptory in Rattoo

 

It was a hospital headed by a Fra’ William from Dublin, but

the Knights Hospitaller yielded Rattoo just before 1207 to the Arroasian Augustinian Canons under the tutelage of Ss. Peter and Paul

 

By 1400, the latter were known as the Order of the Crouched Friars under the rule of St. Augustine, the  Fratres Cruciferi

Whether under the Knights Hospitaller, or their successors the Augustinian Cruciferi, the hospital at Rattoo must have served at full capacity every year around 24th June, the feast day of St. John the Baptist, for on that day an annual combat took place over the nearby River Cashen. The politico-military origins of the fighting lie in the contest around the year 1200 between the Anglo-Norman knights and their Gaelic allies versus  the local Gaelic rulers O’Connors-Kerry, over control of the River Cashen which at the time was the access route into the Kerry interior.

 The final battle, by now between protagonists known as the Cooleens and the Lawlor-Black Mulvihills, took place on St. John’s Day,  24 June 1834 on the strand at Ballyeagh on the Cashen estuary in north Kerry.A fair was being held in Listowel at the time. It was the last of aseries of annual combats the origins of which seemed lost in time to the participants, and which took place at the mid-summer fair, races and pattern of Ballyeagh, renowned throughout Munster.

 

Within the decade that followed, these large-scale occurrences of civil disturbance, incidents of inter-communal warfare at festivals or markets, died out. The Great Famine had arrived, and mere survival was at stake. Like much of the rest of the country, north Kerry would be decimated.


 

Ardfert

 

The Knights Hospitaller of the Order of Saint John also had a foundation in Ardfert. Ardfert was founded originally by St. Brendan the Navigator, and at the time of the Knights arrival was a prosperous walledtown, and in fact the medieval capital of County Kerry. It remained the ecclesiastical capital for a long time after its economic prominence declined to the state of a mere village today.

 

Little evidence remains recorded of the presence of the Knights Hospitaller there, but they were closely allied to, and hosted by, the FitzMaurices, the Anglo-Norman Lords of Kerry, who were a cadet branch of the Fitzgeralds, Earls of Desmond. They are known to have run a hospital there and also catered to victims suffering from leprosy. The leper house had been established in 1312 by Nicholas FitzThomas- FitzMaurice, second Baron of Kerry

 

The Fitzmaurices also involved themselves with the Order of the Knights Templar. Sir Gerald FitzMaurice was Grand Prior of the Templars in Ireland until that Order was suppressed in 1307-1312, when its properties and many of its members were absorbed by the Knights Hospitaller 

 

There is a minor record of a dispute with the Franciscans in 1325 over a market cross and a pillory in Ardfert, which would seem to attest to the fact that they had a continuous presence there for at least a century

 

St. Aubin

To the east of Ardfert and north-east of Tralee lies the townland of Ballintobeenig, called after St. Aubin, a Norman knight

It may have been the feof and ville of such a knight in the 13th century, but no direct record seems to survive. Not far away rises a peak known as Knockariddera, the “Hill of the Knight”.

 

Ardfert Cathedral

 

The St. Aubin family was established in Ireland by William deSancto Albino, who became Lord of Cumsy in County Kilkenny in the early twelfth century

 

He granted lands thereabouts to the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem. Another Chevalier St. Aubin was a renowned Knight Commander of the Knights Hospitaller, by now known as the Knights of Malta, who returned from a reconnaissance mission off the Barbary Coast, and ran a naval campaign against the maritime blockade imposed by the Ottoman Turks during the Great Siege of Malta in 1565

 

Ballintobeenig, the ville of St. Aubin, lies on the south flank of Mount Crusline, known locally as “Crois” (the gaelic for Cross, pronounced “Crush)”, and which was called after a cross once mounted there

 


 

In the Civil Survey of 1656, Crusline was called “the Great hill called Crucifloyne  It is thought to have been called after a longdisappeared cross, placed there by the Flynns, or more likely the local Gaelic lords, the Leanes, hence Crusline or

Crois Uí Laeghain. Perhaps it was associated with the

Cruciferi , the crouched Augustinian Fratres Cruciferi

who also succeeded to the hospital of Rattoo formerly established by the Knights Hospitaller. There can be little doubt that during their presence in Kerry, the Knights Hospitaller would also have often beheld north Kerry from its most commanding vantage point over the entire area, i.e. its highest peak, Mount Crusline, the tallest and western most peak of Stack’s Mountains north-east of Tralee

 

 

Tralee

 

A vague belief that the Knights of St. John once had a commandery in Tralee appeared in 1833 in a topographical dictionary. It was subsequently investigated by William Maunsell Hennessy of the Public Record Office, and by Mary Hickson, who wrote a detailed account of its nature, locations, and fate. In Tralee, the Knights had a “liber hospes”, i.e an inn or guesthouse for travellers, different in nature from their hospital in Ardfert. Their hospital lay approximately on what is today St. John’s Park in Tralee, just east of Rock Street

 

Their church, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist,  was known as Teampull an tSolais - the Church of the Light: a lantern used to hang from its tower in medieval times to guide people across a footbridge spanning an old creek now concealed in a culvert. The Parish Centre which now stands near the site is called Teach an tSolais – House of Light

 

On the site of the original church, a new one was built in the early 1600s, and is now said to be the oldest surviving building in regular use in Tralee. Today, it is the parish church for the Church of Ireland/Anglican Communion, to the rear of which lies St. John’s Lane running from the old Bohereen to the back gates of the old market place. It is a curiosity of the passage of history that it is still a St. John’s church, but now of St. John the Evangelist, and no longer St. John the Baptist. A disused gated archway leads from the Church to St. John’s Lane, and this used to be the main entrance in the past. It seems the Knights Hospitaller still had a presence in St. John’s Lane in 1602

 

Unlike the church, the lane’s name however, refers back to St. John the Baptist.

 

The former Rectory now demolished, near to the site of what is now Teach an tSolais, the Parish Centre

 

 

 

 The present gate, known as the Abbey Gate which is on the site of the original entrance to the Hospitallers’ Church of Light

 

 

The Church of St John the Evangelist.

 

The Knights also owned land, adjacent to their original church, called Clounalour, named after a “meadow of the Leper” 

 and another field, Gortateampull “ field of the church”

an ancient glebe land. Clounalour now forms an urban area north of Boherbee and east of the former hospital site at St. John’s Park in Tralee town.

 

  The name of the Knights’ patron saint was preserved a short  distance away in Castle Street by the dedication of the later Roman Catholic Church to St. John the Baptist, built between 1854 and 1870. Its structure incorporates an earlier chapel of 1780. Part of the wall of its baptistry contains a slab with effigies of two infants dating from the late thirteenth/early fourteenth centuries

 


 

Eclipse and return in modern times

 

The Knights lost many possessions in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, partly due to their disposal by sale by the then-Prior of Kilmainham, Sir James Keating, and for which malgovernance he was ‘deprived of his dignities’ by the Grand Master of the Order then based at Rhodes. He died shortly after he was ejected from Kilmainham in 1491.But it was a later Prior, Sir John Rawson, present at the loss of Rhodes to the Ottomans, who yielded most, accepting to become Viscount Clontarf with a pension, and surrendering the Priory of Kilmainham and other assets to King Henry VIII as the latter broke with the papacy in Rome

 

Soon afterwards, the Reformation confirmed the loss of all lands and indeed of all rights of the Order when it was suppressed as a Catholic Institution in 1542. However, during the Jacobite resurgence of Catholicism, the Knights Hospitaller appear to have recovered a presence in Ireland, and evolved towards a more Irish identity, eventually siding with the Catholic Jacobites in the counter-reformation.

 

 

 

 

By this time, their demographic profile better reflected the evolving make-up of Irish society, including scions of Cambro-Norman, Hiberno-English, Gallowglass Scots and Gaelic families. Many in the Grand Prior’s regiment would eventually join the ’Wild Geese’ in exile

 

By the nineteenth century their very presence in Kerry and especially Tralee was largely forgotten. It wasn’t until the early twentieth century that the Knights Hospitaller made a return to Ireland in the form of the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta, whose Ambulance Corps recently achieved its 75th anniversary. The Military Hospitaller Order of Malta cooperates with the Alliance of Orders of St. John, as the mutually-recognised Orders of St. John , in accordance with their joint declaration of 14 October 1987. It thus also collaborates with the Most Venerable Order of St. John (Anglican), and the continental Johanniter Orders.

Though knights and dames still form the core of its structure, the numerical strength of the Order today lies in the thousands of its volunteers who give their time and resources in local communities to help the needy. No longer identified with military prowess but rather with its original humanitarian mission, the Order is present across Ireland today, north and south, and is well-known for its assistance to the sick, the handicapped and the poor, very much in keeping with its original ethos.

 

 

Note about the Author

Francis M. O’Donnell, BA, GCMM, KC*SG, KM, KCHS, KCMCO, is former Ambassador of the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St.John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta accredited to the Slovak Republic (2009-2013).